Waterproof Your Winter Coat

Dedicated riders chase excellence in every detail. A horse needs meticulous care for peak performance, and a rider needs solid protection from the weather. Winter rides throw biting winds and sudden downpours at you, and only a coat that performs flawlessly gets you through them. This article lays out the exact steps for waterproofing your winter coat, so you stay comfortable and focused and ready for whatever the weather does.

Key Takeaways for Waterproofing Your Winter Coat

Understand Your Coat’s Fabric: Work out whether your coat has a DWR coating, a waterproof membrane, or a natural fiber before you choose a waterproofing method.
Thorough Cleaning is Paramount: Wash the coat with a technical cleaner made for waterproof fabrics, which removes the dirt, oils, and residues that block waterproofing.
Choose the Right Product: Pick wash-in treatments (best for overall breathability), spray-on treatments (ideal for restoring DWR on specific areas), or wax-based treatments (for natural fibers).
Apply Meticulously: Follow the product instructions exactly and apply evenly so coverage is complete and effective.
Heat Activation is Crucial: Many waterproofing treatments need heat to activate and bond to the fabric, usually from a tumble dryer or careful ironing.
Regular Maintenance Extends Life: Reapply waterproofing when water stops beading on the surface, and keep fabric softeners away from the coat.
Consider Professional Help: A professional can re-waterproof highly technical, delicate, or expensive garments and get the best possible results.

The Imperative of Waterproofing: Uncompromising Performance in Any Weather

For an equestrian, performance is a founding principle, not just a hope. It covers the rider as much as the horse, because your ability to concentrate and perform depends on how comfortable and protected you are. A winter coat is more than an outer layer. It is a key piece of equipment, a shield against the elements that leaves your attention free for the connection with your horse and the demands of the ride. Once a winter coat stops repelling water, you lose warmth, you feel uncomfortable, and you get distracted from the task in front of you.

Waterproofing restores the protection your coat had when it was new, so you stay dry, warm, and focused in any weather. This habit mirrors the dedication to Specialized Care & Protection that we give our equine partners, since peak performance comes from absolute well-being for both horse and rider.

Decoding Your Coat’s Defenses: Understanding Existing Treatments

Before you start re-waterproofing, find out how your coat resists water in the first place. Most modern winter coats rely on one of two main technologies, or on a combination of the two:

Durable Water Repellent (DWR) Coatings

Many coats carry a DWR coating, even ones labeled “water resistant” instead of “waterproof.” It is a polymer-based treatment on the outside of the fabric that makes water bead up and roll off. DWR stops the outer fabric from “wetting out,” which means becoming saturated and heavy. Friction, dirt, oils, and repeated washing wear it down over time, so beading drops and saturation rises. Restoring DWR is a common and effective way to re-waterproof a coat.

Waterproof Membranes

True waterproofing usually comes from a laminated membrane, such as Gore-Tex, eVent, or one of many proprietary technologies. These membranes have microscopic pores too small for liquid water droplets to pass but large enough to let water vapor (perspiration) escape, which gives you breathability. The membrane typically stays waterproof for the life of the garment. If the DWR on the outer fabric fails, though, the membrane gets overwhelmed, and you feel clammy and think the coat is “leaking.” Re-waterproofing these garments mostly means restoring the DWR layer so the membrane works at its best.

Identifying the Need for Re-waterproofing

The easiest check is the “water bead” test. Spray or splash a little water on the outside of the coat. If it beads up and rolls off, the DWR still works. If it soaks in and leaves dark, wet patches, the DWR has failed and you need to re-waterproof. Look closely at high-wear areas like the shoulders, cuffs, and elbows, which usually wear out first.

The Foundation of Protection: Pre-Treatment Cleaning

Effective waterproofing starts with a spotless coat. Dirt, body oils, sunscreen residue, and even leftover laundry detergent can form a barrier that keeps waterproofing treatments from bonding to the fabric fibers. Skip this step and you badly reduce how well and how long any re-waterproofing lasts.

Why Regular Detergents are Detrimental

Standard laundry detergents often contain surfactants, brighteners, and fabric softeners. They work well on everyday clothing, but they can leave residues that attract water, interfere with waterproof membranes, and stop DWR treatments from sticking or reactivating.

Choosing the Right Cleaner

Use a technical cleaner designed for waterproof and breathable fabrics. These products lift grime without leaving residue, so they keep or even reactivate the garment’s existing DWR properties and let membranes keep working. Nikwax Tech Wash and Grangers Performance Wash are good examples.

Washing Your Winter Coat

Prepare the Coat: Empty every pocket, close all zippers, snaps, and Velcro fasteners, and loosen any drawcords. If there is a lot of mud or dirt, brush it off gently before washing.
Check Care Label: Read the garment’s care label for its specific temperature and washing instructions.
Machine Wash (Front-Loader Recommended):
- Clear any detergent residue out of your machine’s detergent dispenser. Run a rinse cycle if you need to.
- Wash one coat at a time, or at most two lightweight items, so the cleaning and rinsing work thoroughly.
- Pour the recommended amount of technical cleaner into the dispenser.
- Choose a gentle cycle with warm water (30-40°C or as the care label says). Skip very hot water unless the label tells you to use it.
- Add an extra rinse cycle to remove every trace of cleaning agent. If the coat is especially bulky or delicate, skip the spin cycle, because too much spinning can damage insulation or membranes.
Hand Wash (Alternative for Delicate Coats):
- Fill a clean tub or sink with warm water.
- Add the right amount of technical cleaner.
- Submerge the coat and swish the water gently to spread the cleaner.
- Let it soak for 15-30 minutes, squeezing and swishing now and then.
- Rinse under cool running water until no suds remain.
- Press out the excess water gently, without twisting or wringing.

Selecting Your Shield: Choosing the Right Waterproofing Product

The market offers many re-waterproofing products, and each suits different fabrics and goals. The right choice gives the best results and keeps your coat breathable and comfortable to wear.

1. Wash-In Treatments (e.g., Nikwax TX.Direct Wash-In, Grangers Performance Repel Wash-In)

Best For: These suit garments with waterproof/breathable membranes (Gore-Tex, eVent, and similar) and insulated jackets where applying a treatment from the outside is awkward.
How They Work: You add the treatment to the washing machine cycle after cleaning. It coats all the fibers, restores DWR on the outer fabric, and often improves the garment’s overall water repellency. People generally consider these excellent for keeping breathability.
Application: You usually apply them in a clean washing machine, either after the cleaning cycle or as a separate cycle straight after. Follow the product’s instructions for dosage and cycle type.
Consideration: Some people argue that a wash-in can slightly reduce the breathability of an inner lining that doesn’t need DWR, but modern formulations keep that effect small.

2. Spray-On Treatments (e.g., Nikwax TX.Direct Spray-On, Grangers Performance Repel Spray)

Best For: These work well for spot treating worn areas (shoulders, cuffs), garments with wicking linings, and items where protecting internal fabric properties (down insulation, for example) is critical.
How They Work: You spray the treatment straight onto the clean, damp (or dry, depending on the product) outer fabric. That lets you target the application and skip areas that don’t need DWR, like internal liners.
Application: Hang the clean coat on a hanger. Spray evenly from a distance of 10-15 cm so the outer fabric is fully saturated, and wipe off any excess or drips with a clean cloth.
Consideration: This method takes more manual effort to cover evenly, and on very large or complex garments it can work less well than a wash-in for full coverage.

3. Wax-Based Treatments (e.g., Fjällräven Greenland Wax, Barbour Wax Thornproof Dressing)

Best For: These suit traditional materials like canvas, G-1000 fabric (Fjällräven), and waxed cotton jackets (Barbour). People don’t usually use them on technical membrane-based garments.
How They Work: You rub solid wax onto the fabric and melt it into the fibers with heat. The result is a very sturdy, long-lasting, water-resistant barrier.
Application: Rub the wax block straight onto the fabric in a thin, even layer. Then melt it gently into the fabric with a hairdryer, an iron (on low setting with a protective cloth), or even sunlight, until it disappears. Add more wax as needed.
Consideration: Wax noticeably changes the fabric’s feel and breathability, it doesn’t suit technical waterproof/breathable garments, and it can take a long time.

Think about your coat’s original material and construction when you choose. Synthetic technical garments generally do best with wash-in or spray-on treatments. Natural fibers and traditional designs get better, if different, protection from wax-based options. You can find a range of premium care products in our store, and although they are made for equine care, the principle of quality and effective treatment applies everywhere.

The Ritual of Renewal: Step-by-Step Application

Once the coat is thoroughly clean and you have chosen a waterproofing product, the application needs precision and strict attention to the instructions to give the best results. Treat it like a careful grooming ritual that prepares your essential gear for peak performance, much as our Coat & Body Care for horses protects their magnificent appearance and well-being.

For Wash-In Treatments:

Post-Cleaning Prep: After the first cleaning cycle with a technical wash, check that the washing machine’s detergent dispenser is clean, and leave the damp coat inside the machine.
Add Treatment: Pour the recommended amount of wash-in waterproofing product straight into the detergent dispenser.
Run Cycle: Choose a gentle cycle (typically 30-40°C) with a slow spin or no spin, in line with the product’s instructions and your coat’s care label. Avoid excessive heat unless the instructions call for it.
Rinse Thoroughly: Make sure the coat is rinsed well. With some products an extra rinse cycle helps remove unbonded excess.

For Spray-On Treatments:

Prepare the Coat: Hang the clean, damp (or dry, per the product instructions) coat on a sturdy hanger in a well-ventilated area. You can also lay it flat on a protected surface.
Shake Well: Shake the spray bottle vigorously before and during application so the solution stays well mixed.
Apply Evenly: Hold the bottle 10-15 cm (4-6 inches) from the fabric and spray systematically, building a uniform, overlapping coat across the whole outer surface. Give seams, shoulders, and high-wear areas extra attention.
Wipe Excess: Wipe away any drips or puddles at once with a clean, damp cloth, so you don’t get uneven spots or marks.

For Wax-Based Treatments:

Prepare the Coat: Make sure the coat is clean and completely dry, and lay it flat on a clean, stable surface.
Apply Wax: Rub the wax block firmly across the fabric to leave a visible, thin, even layer, working in small sections. Do the areas that wear and get wet most first, like shoulders and cuffs.
Melt the Wax: Gently melt the wax into the fabric with a hairdryer on a medium setting, an iron on a low setting (with a pressing cloth between iron and fabric), or a heat gun (with extreme caution). The wax should sink into the fibers and leave a slightly darker, evenly coated surface. Don’t overheat the fabric.
Repeat if Necessary: Where you want extra protection, apply a second thin layer of wax and melt it in.

Safety Note: Work in a well-ventilated area, especially with spray-on products, and wear gloves to protect your hands, particularly with wax treatments.

Curing and Care: Maximizing Longevity and Effectiveness

The last stage sets the treatment and decides how long it works. Proper drying and ongoing maintenance add a lot of life to your coat’s water repellency.

Heat Activation and Drying:

Many modern DWR treatments, especially wash-in and spray-on products, need heat to “cure” or activate. The heat helps the water-repellent polymers bond tightly to the fabric fibers and work as well as they can.

Tumble Drying: For most synthetic waterproof coats (check the care label!), tumble drying on a low to medium heat setting is ideal. Toss in a few clean tennis balls, especially if the coat has down or synthetic insulation, to fluff the fill and dry it evenly. Dry the coat completely, then give it an extra 20-30 minutes on low heat to activate the DWR.
Air Drying: If tumble drying isn’t recommended or isn’t possible, air dry the coat in a warm, well-ventilated place out of direct sunlight. Once it is dry, you can apply gentle heat to activate the DWR with a hairdryer on a low setting, held about 30 cm (12 inches) away, or with a cool iron (again, with a protective cloth). Be extremely careful with direct heat, particularly on delicate fabrics or membranes.
Waxed Coats: A waxed coat does best when you air dry it in a warm place after waxing. The wax keeps curing and hardens slightly over time.

Ongoing Maintenance Tips:

Avoid Fabric Softeners: Never use fabric softeners on waterproof garments. They clog the fabric’s pores and destroy DWR, so the waterproofing stops working.
Gentle Cleaning: Between full re-waterproofing treatments, always clean the coat with a technical cleaner and follow the gentle washing instructions.
Spot Clean: For minor dirt, spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap (like dish soap diluted with water), then rinse thoroughly.
Proper Storage: Hang your winter coat on a wide hanger in a cool, dry place. Don’t squash it into tight spaces for long periods, because that can damage the DWR and insulation.
Reapply as Needed: Check your coat’s water repellency with the “water bead” test. When water no longer beads up consistently, it’s time for another re-waterproofing treatment. How often depends on use, exposure, and washing.

Specific Material Considerations: Tailoring Your Approach

The general principles apply to every coat, but some materials need special attention when you waterproof them so they keep their unique properties and performance.

Down-Filled Coats:

Down loses its loft and insulating power when it gets wet, so waterproofing a down coat matters a great deal. Wash it with a down-specific cleaner (a technical cleaner alone won’t do) and rinse it thoroughly. For re-waterproofing, people often prefer spray-on treatments because they don’t coat the down itself with waterproofing agents. If you use a wash-in, check that it is compatible with down, follow the drying instructions closely, and use tennis balls to fluff the down and stop it clumping.

Wool Blends:

Many winter coats use wool or wool blends for natural warmth. Wool has some natural water repellency thanks to its lanolin content. For better protection, you can use specialist wool-compatible waterproofing sprays. Avoid harsh detergents and high heat, which can make wool shrink or felt.

Synthetic Insulation:

Synthetic insulation (e.g., Thinsulate, PrimaLoft) copes with wet better than down and keeps some of its insulating value. These coats follow the standard procedures for wash-in or spray-on treatments. Dry them completely to prevent mildew.

Leather or Suede Trim:

Leather or suede accents on a winter coat generally can’t take standard fabric waterproofing products. Cover them before you apply spray-on treatments, or keep them out of wash-in applications. Leather and suede need their own specialized conditioners and waterproofing sprays to guard against moisture damage.

When to Seek Professional Expertise

DIY waterproofing works for most garments, but sometimes a professional re-waterproofing service is the best choice. It protects the integrity and performance of valuable gear, much like entrusting your equine partner to a specialist.

Highly Technical or Expensive Garments: A high-end, multi-layer technical coat with a complex membrane system (professional mountaineering or equestrian competition wear, for example) may do better with a specialist cleaner, who can have industrial-grade equipment and treatments that give superior, longer-lasting results.
Delicate or Vintage Coats: Antique or very delicate fabrics, intricate embroidery, or unusual construction can suffer from standard washing and waterproofing methods. Professionals know how to handle these items with the care they need.
Guaranteed Results: If you want absolute certainty and the best performance, professional services often come with guarantees, which gives you peace of mind that your investment is fully protected.
Stains or Persistent Odors: If regular cleaning can’t remove deep-set stains or lingering odors, a professional cleaner can deal with them before re-waterproofing.
Lack of Time or Equipment: Without the time, a suitable washing machine, or the space to dry and apply treatments properly, handing the job to professionals is a convenient and reliable answer.

We believe in elite care for exceptional athletes, and making sure your riding gear performs at its peak extends that belief. Whether you waterproof your coat at home or use a professional service, the goal stays the same: dependable performance, comfort, and protection from the elements. Browse our store for products that reflect this commitment to excellence in care.

Frequently Asked Questions About Waterproofing a Winter Coat

Q1: How often should I re-waterproof my winter coat?

How often depends heavily on use, exposure to dirt and the elements, and how often you wash the coat. A good rule of thumb is to re-waterproof when water no longer beads consistently on the outer fabric, typically once a season for regularly used coats, or every few washes for heavily worn ones.

Q2: Can I use a regular household detergent to wash my waterproof coat before applying the treatment?

No, and you should strongly avoid it. Regular detergents contain additives like fabric softeners, brighteners, and perfumes that leave residues. Those residues can clog the pores of waterproof membranes and stop DWR treatments from bonding, which seriously damages your coat’s breathability and water repellency. Always use a technical cleaner designed for waterproof fabrics.

Q3: Will waterproofing my coat affect its breathability?

Modern waterproofing treatments, especially those made for technical fabrics, restore DWR without a big impact on breathability. Wash-in treatments are generally very good at keeping breathability, and so are properly applied spray-ons. Applying too much, or using the wrong product (like wax on a membrane jacket), can reduce breathability, so follow the product instructions closely.

Q4: What if my coat’s care label says “dry clean only”?

If the care label clearly says “dry clean only,” washing or waterproofing the coat at home with water-based treatments could damage it. Take it to a professional dry cleaner who specializes in outdoor gear or delicate fabrics and ask about their re-waterproofing services.

Q5: Can I waterproof the inside of my coat?

Waterproofing treatments are meant for the outer fabric. Putting them on the inside (the lining) is generally unnecessary and can even backfire, because it might reduce the lining’s ability to wick moisture away from your body, and you’d feel clammy. The outer layer should repel water so the interior stays dry and breathable.