# Dartmoor & Exmoor Pony Grooming > How to groom Dartmoor and Exmoor ponies living out year-round: protect the weatherproof coat, manage mud, and keep mane and tail soft, not stripped. - **URL:** https://piaffehorse.com/breeds/dartmoor-and-exmoor-pony-grooming/ Dartmoor and Exmoor ponies are built to stand outside through a filthy British winter, and the single biggest grooming mistake is treating them like a stabled sport horse. Scrub the grease out of that coat every week with a strong shampoo, and you strip away the very waterproofing keeping them warm and dry. The better approach is fewer, smarter baths — working with the coat's natural oils rather than against them — and putting your real effort into mud, a dense double coat, and a mane and tail that mat fast if you leave them alone. ## Two ponies, one moorland job to do Dartmoor and Exmoor ponies come from neighbouring stretches of the West Country, and both do essentially the same job: living outside, all year, on rough grazing, with as little human intervention as possible. Neither breed is large — most sit around 12 to 12.2hh — but they're dense-boned and thick through the neck and quarters in a way that's about insulation, not fitness. Exmoors carry the breed's giveaway mealy markings, a pale oatmeal shading around the muzzle, eyes and flanks that's entirely normal and nothing to correct with a shampoo. Dartmoors tend to be plainer in colour, often bay, brown or black, but just as tough underneath. Both grow a proper double coat for winter: a dense, insulating undercoat beneath long, coarse guard hairs that shed rain the way a duck's feathers do. Good grooming for either breed starts with respecting that coat, not fighting it. ## Working with the coat's weatherproofing, not against it A pony living out produces grease through the skin that spreads along the guard hairs and, combined with the coat's own layered structure, is what actually keeps rain running off instead of soaking through to the skin. Wash that grease away too often with a strong shampoo and you'll end up with a pony that looks glossy for an afternoon, then gets properly wet and cold the next time weather turns. That matters far more for an animal with no rug and no stable to retreat to than it does for one that lives in overnight. The rule of thumb with moorland natives is simple: bathe rarely, and when you do, choose something gentle enough not to undo weeks of the pony's own coat management. - Full baths: a handful of times a year is genuinely enough for a pony living out — before a show, after clipping, or when the coat's too dirty to groom clean any other way. - Everyday care: dry brushing and picking out mud once it's dried does far more good than a bucket and shampoo ever will. - Water and weather: lukewarm water only, and only on a mild, dry day with enough daylight left to get the pony properly dry before dark. ## Daily grooming and mud, tackled in the right order Most of what a Dartmoor or Exmoor needs, day to day, happens with a stiff dandy brush rather than a hose. Mud dries to a crumbly crust within a day or two given decent shelter, and at that point it lifts out far more easily than it ever would wet. Try to groom a muddy native clean while the coat's still damp, and you'll just smear dirt and grease through the hair without helping the skin underneath. The same logic applies to legs. It's tempting to hose belly and legs clean every time the pony comes in, but repeated wetting and drying of the lower leg is one of the things that breaks down skin condition over a wet winter. Better, where you can manage it, to let mud dry and brush it away, saving washing for when a leg is genuinely caked. - Let mud and sweat dry fully before you touch a brush to it — rushing this is the most common reason native coats end up dull and matted. - Work a stiff dandy brush in short flicks against the lie of the coat, lifting dirt out rather than pressing it back in. - Follow with a softer body brush over the face, flanks and any thin-skinned areas, cleaning it on a curry comb as you go. - Pick out feet daily, whatever the season — thick feather and constant mud make this the job most likely to get skipped. Care note Constantly wet, muddy skin on the lower leg can tip over into mud fever or rain scald, particularly through a wet autumn and winter. Persistent scabbing, heat, swelling, or a pony that's suddenly sore to move needs a vet, not just a different shampoo. Grooming supports healthy skin — it doesn't treat an infection. Our [mud fever & rain scald](/conditions/mud-fever-and-rain-scald-grooming/) guide covers the everyday routine that helps keep skin resilient before it gets that far. ## Mane, tail, and bathing day without stripping condition Both breeds grow a proper winter mane and a tail thick enough to double as a windbreak, and left alone in a muddy field, that hair turns into dreadlocks within weeks. You don't need to fight it daily. A couple of proper sessions a week, working from the bottom up in small sections with fingers before a brush ever goes near it, keeps things manageable without a battle every time. For a general wash of the body and mane when the pony genuinely needs one, a gentle everyday shampoo such as [Revive Shampoo](/product/revive-shampoo/) cleans thoroughly without leaving hair dry or brittle afterwards. Where mane and tail need real conditioning — after a wet winter has left them coarse and prone to snapping — a dedicated wash like [Reluxe Mane&Tail Shampoo](/product/reluxe-maintail-shampoo/), built around castor oil and jojoba, does the softening work an everyday body shampoo simply isn't designed for. Use it sparingly on a native's hair, since you're after softness and manageable tangles rather than the slick, silky finish that has a plaited show mane sliding loose by lunchtime. When a full bath is called for, wet the coat thoroughly before any shampoo goes on — native hair is dense and takes longer to soak through than it looks — then work it in with fingers rather than a sponge, paying attention to the girth area, the sheath or udder, and the crest under a thick mane where grease quietly builds up unseen. Rinse until the water runs completely clear, since leftover shampoo in a double coat is a common cause of itching and rubbing afterwards, then scrape off the worst of the water and let the pony move around somewhere sheltered rather than stand damp in a cold wind. Through summer, a native standing out day and night gets no relief from flies, midges and the biting insects that trigger sweet itch reactions in susceptible ponies, so Repel Oil Shampoo, an insect-deterring wash built around citronella, eucalyptus, lemongrass and tea tree, earns its place in the routine alongside rugs and fly masks, rather than replacing them. Shift the whole plan with the seasons rather than running one routine year-round. Spring and early summer are your window for the handful of full baths a moorland pony actually needs. Autumn is when you ease off the shampoo and let the winter coat's grease develop undisturbed. And through the depths of winter, the job is almost entirely dry brushing, mud management and keeping an eye on the skin under all that hair, rather than chasing a show-ring shine nobody out on the moor is going to see. ### Grooming essentials for moorland natives - https://piaffehorse.com/product/revive-shampoo/ ## [Revive Shampoo](https://piaffehorse.com/product/revive-shampoo/) $320 [Add to cart](/breeds/dartmoor-and-exmoor-pony-grooming/?format=md&add-to-cart=28) - https://piaffehorse.com/product/reluxe-maintail-shampoo/ ## [Reluxe Main&Tail Shampoo](https://piaffehorse.com/product/reluxe-maintail-shampoo/) $490 [Add to cart](/breeds/dartmoor-and-exmoor-pony-grooming/?format=md&add-to-cart=26) - https://piaffehorse.com/product/repel-oil-shampoo/ ## [Repel Oil Shampoo](https://piaffehorse.com/product/repel-oil-shampoo/) $530 [Add to cart](/breeds/dartmoor-and-exmoor-pony-grooming/?format=md&add-to-cart=18)